Wednesday 11 April 2012

Sea kayaking in Milos, Day Two, into the wind

My second day of paddling was to prove a lot more challenging than the first due to the strong SW winds, up to Force 7. Rod had selected the most feasible route down the west coast of the island to an old sulfur mine. We launched beside the Varitine Factory, a large mine for bentonite on the NE edge of the island. 20% of the world supply of this valuable mineral comes from this mine which is the largest employer on the island. Paddling south down Voudhia Bay, hugging the coast we avoided the worst of the force 4 headwinds but were exposed to side winds coming down the small valleys.

The wind picked up once we rounded Cape Kastanas but we were still able to enter a sheltered sea cave. Occasional gusts kept me honest against the strengthening wind that had picked up to force 5. Shortly after rounding Cape Roma we landed on a small beach, Paliorema, that had a boathouse and ruined building. During the 16th century the biggest revenue earner for the Greek region were the millstones mined in the little valley leading up from the now deserted beach. Seems hard to imagine now but it shows how ephemeral things are.

Whilst having a snack we examined the various worn rocks in a washout just above the sea line. Rod quickly realised that many of the rocks were not from the island. He started to assemble a sample of the different types, arranging and classifying them according to their igneous and metamorphic types. As far as I could figure out the rocks may have been brought to the island as ballast for the ships then dumped nearby so they could load the millstones.

Continuing southward we passed our planned lunch spot after 500m but kept going to round the adjacent headland to experience the larger swell of the more exposed coast. Had a fun 10 minutes of slogging into the strong wind and swell before turning around and back for lunch.

Approaching our lunch spot on Thiafes Beach was another Raiders of the Lost Ark-like scene. The site is an abandoned sulfur mine, now ruined. Buildings were stepped up the side of the slope with an amazingly steep rail track alongside. as the wind would howl down the valley and blow dust and tailings out into the tiny bay we sheltered in the sunny southern edge by a stone wall. The mine was established in the 1930s and shut down in the 50s. It was still maintained till the 80s so all the visible decay had taken place since then, evidence of the harsh, windy environment. Actually the mine was only the most recent in the valley, the Romans had mined here two millennia ago.

I explored whilst Rod relaxed. The site is a photographer's dream, grit and dust not withstanding. I was able to clamber through a series of interconnected buildings still full of derelict machinery and roofs. As we had lunch the wind increased and the waves picked up.

The positive for the return trip was that we expeteced a tailwind, now force 7. the downside were the gusts that seemed to come from any direction and down fron the small valleys. The trickiest bit was just getting out off the beach and out of the tiny bay. I was getting blown sideways from the wind from the valley but eventually made it up past Paliorema. Once past Cape Roma the tailwind and seas were generally helpful but I couldn't relax.

Crossing Voudia Bay back to the launch site was generalll flatter but then a strong crosswind down a large valley complicated matters. By the time we landed back at the factory I felt satisfied with a challenging 13km paddle.

(OK, cannot seem to access my photos on Flickr for some strange reason, have to r=try and publish the accompanying photos later).

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