Rod saved the longest and toughest paddle trip for my last day. Joined again by Greek paddlers George and Olga, our aim was to paddle right around the island of Kimolos. Sitting 1 km off the north-east of Milos, Kimolos has a population of about 2,000 people settled on the southern and eastern shores. The circumnavigation is a 27km round trip from the town of Pollonia on Milos.
Our initial plan was to do a clockwise trip but on arrival at our launch beach in the middle of Pollonia we were faced with a stiff force 4 south-easter. We decided to reverse the direction of the trip in order to get a start with the long headwind slog and keep the shorter one for the end of the trip when more tired. The first leg then saw us paddling into the headwind for a 5km leg along the south coast of Kimolos to the south east edge. 55 minutes later we reached the loading gantry marking the point and turned left to make our way NE then N up the coast.
Here we had a mix of conditions with some headwind due to topographic effects then a cross then following sea with some swell. We passed the harbour village of Psathi below the main town, Kimolos. As we made our way more north we encountered a lot of clapotis close to the shore making for an interesting ride. Just short of half way up the coast segment was a pair of off shore low arches with the second requiring a quick left turn after going through the first in order to successfully negotiate. Quite a lively interlude with amplified swell and rebound but I emerged dignity intact. For the rest of this leg we hung further offshore to avoid the clapotis and make the most of the sea.
As we rounded the NE edge of the island we could see another bentonite mine. Finally we had the full benefit of a following sea and tailwind, heading on a short NW leg before rounding Cape Pouli and heading more westerly. We cut straight across the wide Monastiria Bay. The land to our left was more steeply sloped with little habitation. Some where crossing the bay we passed our halfway mark. We had some large rollers helping along on this leg, evidence of the swell.
Approaching the most northern point of the island, Cape Gherakia, we could see a few lower pinnacles and land masses below the main cape. Rod directed to keep left where we soon saw a gauntlet between the actual cape and the rocks. Our side was rough due to swell and rebound but shooting through the other side was dead calm and sheltered from wind and swell. We swung a hard light and into the rocks which turned out to be a delightful series of arches, tunnels and caves called the Labyrinth.
One arch had collapsed since last year but the main cave had several entrances, some open to the ocean swell and lovely lighting. After playing around here for a while we continued along the calm sea SW to our lunch spot, about 15 minutes paddling. We pulled onto a small beach, one of a pair in a small bay. The valley was uninhabited but had lots of stone terraces, dating back to antiquity. Olga, being in the front of the double kayak, had copped a wet ride so appreciated the chance to change, dry out and make the most of the intermittent sun whilst we had lunch. We had been paddling for 3 1/4 hours non stop till this point, exceeding their previous longest paddle trip.
After a 45 minute lunch break we headed off for the homeward paddle. Tracking SW down the coast the harsh, rugged nature of the land was evident. From memory I can only recall seeing one habitable building along this stretch off steep valleys and cliffs. It started to rain along this stretch but luckily only lasted a few minutes. Eventually we reached Cape Petalidha and turned south, picking up a quartering wind though we still had shelter from the cliffs on our left.
Once we reached Tsi Kalis the land dropped in height and a bay opened up, exposing us to the SE headwind and wind waves. We waited for a ferry to come from our right and go south. Cutting across the bay we used Aghios Andreas islet then Cape Kambana to protect us from the full extent of the wind then reached Pollonia Channel for the final crossing. Here we felt the full effect of the force 4 headwind. Selecting a transit point on the headland south of Pollonia we set off for the final 2km slog. I was slower than Rod or the pair in the double but plugged away at it.
Eventually I passed the small point marking the entrance to the open mouth of the beach and boat ramp at Pollonia and could swing right, cutting through a gap between two sections of just submerged rocks with breaking waves. Now I had some almost surf able waves pushing me ashore. Surviving a momentary scare with a large wave just before the beach I finally landed after 6 hours, 5 1/4 of those in the kayak.
Rather weary but happy to have completed the week on such a high I was pleased to land. It had been a great 6 days of paddling along the coast of Milos and nearby islands. Rod runs a great business with Sea Kayak Milos which itself is a wonderful, diverse place to paddle. Yes, you can get lovely calm blue seas and sea caves but you can also have challenging conditions and committing day trips. Thoroughly recommended!
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